Installation

Vital Health Vacuums provides the knowledge the Do-It-Yourself consumer needs to install one of our central vacuum systems into an existing home. We understand that installing a central vacuum system can be intimidating, but we are here to help and make the project a breeze. With proper planning and the right tools, installing a central vacuum system is easier than you might think.
Vital Health Vacuums is unique in the fact that we have installation videos available on-line for your convenience and 7 day a week live telephone support for your peace of mind. We take pride in giving our customer the best tech support on the web and we want to prove it!
The following steps will walk you through the easiest way to install a central vacuum system in an existing home. We also have videos to go along with these instructions that will make it even easier to install your central vacuum system.

Please use the following steps for installing a Central Vacuum System in your home:

Step 1: Getting Started
Section 1.1: Determining the number of Inlets
One of the most commonly asked questions for installing a central vacuum system involves not knowing how many inlets will be needed.  To solve this problem we offer a simple way to determine exactly how many inlets you will need.
To do this you will need these common household items:
·  30 foot or longer extension cord
·  Measuring Tape
·  Masking Tape
·  Broom
·  Telephone Book

Section 1.2 Determining the right amount of Vacuum PVC Pipe and Fittings
Now that you know where your outlets are going, we can determine how much pipe you will need for your project. Measure the distance from each inlet; because the shortest path between two points is a straight line, 45 degree turns can minimize the amount of piping needed for your project. Depending on where you plan on running the pipe, you will have to add the distance to each inlet from the attic or the basement. Vital Health Vacuums offers piping in 32 foot bundles and 8 foot sections which allows you to get the right amount of piping for your unique situation.
Now that you have determined how many inlets and the amount of piping you will need it is time to plan the amount of PVC fittings you may need. Here at Vital Health Vacuums we understand that you may not know exactly how many turns you may need to make with your pipe so we created a one of a kind ordering process that allows you to order more than enough fittings for your project. We accomplish this by letting you return individual fittings from our Main Line Fitting Kit. This allows you to order enough fittings for the job without worrying about buying too many.  At Vital Health Vacuums we have also created an ordering process with 6 easy to follow steps.  We also have charts to guide you on how to choose the right amount of fittings and piping for your project. 
 

Section 1.3 Tools Needed
·  PVC Pipe Cutter or Miter Saw
·  Electric Drill
·  2 1/4" Wood-boring/Masonry Drill Bit
·  Utility Knife or Drywall Saw
·  Speed Square
·  Phillips Head Screwdriver
·  Tape Measure
·  Stud Finder
·  Level
·  Hammer
·  Flashlight
·  Wire Stripper/Cutter

Step 2: Installing the Power Unit
Section 2.1: Installing the Bracket and Power Unit on the wall
Pick out a location for your Central Vacuum System Power Unit, keeping in mind that it has to be within 5 feet of a dedicated circuit breaker power outlet. It also needs to be within 25' of where the unit will be exhausted because exhaust piping needs to be less than 30'. If you plan to make turns in the exhaust piping there has to be a minimum 18" of straight piping before the pipe can turn.
Find a stud using a stud finder and mark the location, and double check to make sure the power cord will still reach the outlet. Using the screws provided mount the bracket 40" from the ground. Mount the body of the vacuum on the bracket. Before mounting the power head, secure the exhaust elbow to the unit with the provided screws. Secure the debris bucket using the two latches on the side.

Section 2.2: Installing the Exhaust and Primary Piping
We recommend that you exhaust your central vacuum outside of your home but some manufacturers require that you do. Please check the owner's manual of your particular power unit for manufacturer requirements on this subject.
Attach the exhaust muffler to the exhaust elbow secured to the unit in step 2.1. Run the piping to the outside of the home making sure you do not make any bends in the tubing within 18" on the muffler. Only 30' of exhaust tubing is allowed. Drill a 2 1/4 inch hole in the wall being careful to look for possible obstructions. It is recommended that a VM136 vent cap be used to finish the exhaust piping on the outside of the home.

For the intake piping on the unit cut a 4" piece of pipe and slide the piece on either the right or left intake port. DO NOT CEMENT THIS PIECE because you may need to remove it in the future. The unused intake port must be sealed using the inlet plug provided. Connect the flexible hose provided to another piece of piping using the hose clamps provided. Continue running pipe into the attic/basement creating the main trunk line for the piping system.

Step 3: Installing the Inlets
Section 3.1: Drilling and Cutting the Holes
Before we run the rest of the PVC Piping we want to install each vacuum inlet. If you have not yet chosen the exact location of each inlet, now is the time to do so. If you are planning to use the electric driven power head for your vacuum, then you need to make sure each inlet is within 6' of an electrical outlet. Each location chosen should be adjacent to a closet where your vacuum piping will be running into. Make sure you have a clear path to the ceiling or the floor for the piping inside the closet. Check for obstructions in the wall by drilling a small hole in the wall inside the closet directly behind the inlet location you have chosen. This way if there are obstructions you will only have to patch a hole in your closet instead of in a more conspicuous area. Use a screwdriver to check for any power wires or other possible obstructions. Using the 2 1/4" drill bit, drill through the closet wall and then through the outside wall where the inlet will be mounted. The two holes should line up making it easier to run the piping. Now go to the inlet location on the outside wall where the hole you just drilled should be. Cut a 2 1/2" wide by 4 1/2" tall rectangle using a drywall saw or utility knife. When measuring to cut the rectangle for the inlet make sure you measure using the center of the current hole as a guide. In other words, when you outline the rectangular hole, the circular hole should be centered inside of it. This will further insure that the inlet and the piping will line up exactly.
 
Section 3.2: Installing the Valve Bracket
Now take an inlet bracket (VM241) and cut the new construction tab off. (optional)  Now take a straight coupling (VM102) and glue that to the inlet bracket. *Always put the glue on the male piece. In this case, the male piece would be the inlet bracket. If you were to put the glue on the inside of the coupling, it would push glue into the middle of the pipe, which could cause an obstruction to build up in that area. Slide the now glued together VM241 and VM102 into the rectangle hole. You should have to angle it into the hole and not be able to pull the bracket straight out of the hole because the bracket should be slightly taller and wider than the hole.
Now take a piece of low voltage wire and snake it through the "wire trap" hole in the valve bracket and through into the closet. Let a couple of inches of wire hang out the front of the bracket so you can attach it to the inlet valve later. Make sure you use enough wire to reach the attic or the basement minimizing the amount of splicing necessary. For instance, if you are running the piping into the attic and you have 10’ ceilings, you would need at least a 10’ piece of low voltage wire depending on how far from the ground you installed the inlet.

Section 3.3: Installing the Inlet Valve
Take the inlet valve (VM195) and attach the low voltage wires to the screws on the valve itself. It does not matter which wire goes where because the wire is just to complete a circuit to turn on the power unit. Feed the metal coat hanger through the bracket and inlet valve to hold the bracket in place while you screw the VM195 to the VM241 sandwiching the wall between the two pieces.
 Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for each inlet valve location.
Either size screw can be used in this type of installation.

Step 4: Installing the Pipe

Section 4.1: Running the Pipe to the Attic/Basement

Now that you have each inlet in place we can start to run the PVC piping that will make up the rest of your central vacuum system. From inside the closet you should be able to see the straight coupling attached to the back of the inlet bracket. Measure the distance from the back of the coupling to the outside of the hole. **Now add ¾” or 1 ½” ** to that measurement to account for the coupling lip. Each PVC fitting has a 3/4" lip for the piping to go into, so we have to consider that when measuring. For instance, if you measure from the back of the coupling to the outside of the wall as 5" then you should cut a piece of PVC piping that is 5 ¾” or 6 ½” long. 
**Depending on whether you want the piping flush against the wall or ¾” away will determine if you have to jetty the pipe out to avoid cutting into ceiling or floor joists. 

Before you glue anything together, check to make sure that the piece of pipe you cut is the right size. Glue the piece of piping you just cut to a (VM104) 90-degree short elbow. Take the pipe and short elbow fitting and glue them to the straight coupling in the wall. Cut a 2 1/4" hole in the ceiling/floor and use a (VM138) Pipe collar to finish the hole.  Measure the distance from the top of the VM104 to the ceiling/floor, then add up to 1 foot to account for ceiling or floor beams. Cut a piece of PVC piping that length and run the pipe through the hole into the attic/basement.

Section 4.2: Running the Pipe to the Power Unit
Now that you have all of your piping sticking up into the attic/basement, we can plan the exact route the pipe will take. Depending on the setup of the house, there are a few different ways that you could accomplish this. The easiest way would be to run a main "trunk" line toward each inlet. If your inlets are not accessible by one main trunk line then the appropriate turns must be made. For simplicity of these instructions, we assume that each inlet can be accessed from one main line. If you plan on making many turns it is suggested that extra Main Line kits are purchased. Keep in mind that any extra fittings from the Main Line kits can be returned for a full refund.

Run the main trunk line toward the each inlet.  Before you reach the inlet use a (VM114) 45 degree "Y" fitting to turn towards the inlet. Then when you get perpendicular to the inlet use a VM112 45 degree short elbow to align the pipe to the inlet as seen in the figure above. When you make the 45-degree turn away from the trunk line, make sure that the airflow of the vacuum matches the figure above. Using the VM103 sweep fitting to connect the main line to the pipe coming from the inlet. Assemble the piping together without gluing them at first. Mark each piece and continue to the next inlet. Once every piece of pipe is cut assembled and marked, you can now glue each piece together. Once the complete piping system is installed wait about an hour and check the system for leaks. This can be done either with a vacuum gauge at each inlet or just a simple audible check of the piping while the power unit is on to make sure there are no leaks.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to give us a call @ 1-888-932-4749 7 days per week.